Mining for Mountains
4/3/02
Silverton's goodies revealed
by Josh Rhea
The hat is famous. I hate to start this story with another reference to Aaron Brill's tired, woven-straw sun hat, but it just fits. It stands out in contrast to the blue-collar miners roaring up a lonely dirt road in a cloud of dust. It warms hearts in a community uncertain of the ramifications of those dreaded two words, 'ski area.'
Aaron Brill did not start a 'ski area,' or at least not something that has ever fit such a trite definition. This man, labeled a visionary by some, has created something brand-new in the realm of skiing in North America: lift-accessed backcountry. His slow, double chairlift could be considered akin to European legends such as La Grave or Chamonix's Aiguille du Midi-lifts that transport skiers to the top of a mountain range, nothing more.
Many articles have been written discussing the massive challenges facing Brill and his forgotten stepchild resort. This is not one of them. Silverton Mountain is open. You can hop in your car, drive down Highway 550 from Montrose, Colorado, and in moments find yourself lost at the top of a lonely chairlift in the San Juan range.
Approaching the town of Silverton from the north is a trial in itself. Red Mountain Pass is arguably the most treacherous pass that remains open in winter in Colorado, bordering 200-foot cliffs devoid of guardrails for much of its length. It lies between the picturesque summer destination of Ouray and the decrepit mining town that may be experiencing something of a winter revival.
Revival, however, may be too strong a term just yet-the quaint Main Street that is lined with Victorian shops and homes, bristling with saloons, restaurants, and curios, is dominated by boarded-up windows during the snowy months. There is only one restaurant open for dinner each evening: Asta la Pasta, a pizza and pasta joint. Town has the rough-hewn feel of early frontier Colorado.
A wide dirt road leads away from Silverton, following a stream so visibly toxic that I shy away at the admittedly beautiful sight: brilliant oranges, reds and purples tint every rock, tree stump, and patch of mud beneath the water's surface. Huge trucks lumber by in the ongoing mine clean-up operation further up-valley, and skier Gabe Schroder and I follow in their wake.
Moments later, I catch sight of what I first mistook for a telephone wire-a tiny chairlift flashing by among thick stands of lodgepole pines. Silverton Mountain consists of a tiny parking lot ill-equipped to handle more than about 20 cars, a tent containing a wood-burning stove near the base, a tiny shelter at the top, one skier shuttle, and a chairlift. I'm in heaven.
Due to constraints placed on Silverton by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) while they conduct an Environmental Impact Study (EIS), skiing the mountain is restricted to guided tours with a maximum of 20 skiers per day. At $99 per day, it is a deal not to be missed. Snowcat operations are nearly impossible to find for less than $150, and heli skiing isn't even in the ballpark. Skiers split off into four or five groups, amounting to the same number of people per guide. You can't beat it.
The chairlift at Silverton, purchased from Mammoth Mountain in California, runs only when needed-when your group skis up to the base. It rises through the only cut run on the mountain, and the slope below is evidence of the eco-friendly methods employed by Brill's staff. Minimal numbers of trees were removed, leaving plenty of logs and stumps behind which just happen to make nice powdery kickers. The catch is, you don't want to fall-taking a huge stump to the rib cage could send a skier home a little early.
The moment you gain altitude above the tree line is when the stunning beauty and potential of Silverton Mountain becomes apparent. Ridgelines stretch away in every direction, harboring everything from wind-loaded powder fields to massive, rocky buttresses. A sprawling cirque rises above the upper lift towers, from which spill countless pristine couloirs. Exposure and altitude reign supreme here-leave any misgivings at the bottom.
Aaron and his crew run a tight operation, leading groups on 10-to30-minute hikes to access his mind-bending terrain. Safety is paramount-no one is allowed up without beacon, shovel, and probe, and skiers abide by backcountry etiquette: usually only one at a time, allowing the lead guide to ski cut the slope and evaluate stability.
The mountain is primarily divided into two unique zones: the high alpine terrain above the top of the lift which harbors Alp-like terrain and exposure, and a huge ridge below the lift which accesses countless tree shots and narrow avalanche chutes. Either route is worthy of hiking from the bottom-which Aaron and partner Jenny did as guides last season before the chairlift was installed. Mandatory and Nightmare, runs in the upper treeless areas fit their namesakes well, while tree runs like Colorado and Split-Ski are steep, sustained, and often horde stashes of unbelievable powder.
Our first guided run on the mountain (by Brill himself) sent us on a 15-minute hike, from which we accessed a huge, carve-able bowl that funneled into a highly exposed cliff zone. Without his instruction, I likely would have followed the siren song of untouched powder fields down to an unskiable 200-foot cliff. Fortunately, Brill showed us the tricky route through Mandatory, and we billy-goated through rocks, rotten snow, and Christmas-tree snags to safety. The terrain on this one run was worth the trip, and evidence that Brill has found a rare thing in the mountains of Colorado: massive vertical with a steep pitch, terrain worthy of Crested Butte's North Pole, and my personal favorite, no bumps.
The ensuing runs proved just as amazing, if not as technically difficult. Seemingly endless tree runs revealed pocket after pocket of untouched powder, and with each new zone our speed and smiles increased. While Silverton had received minimal recent snowfall on top of a thin base, we were still rewarded with incredible, creamy snow and unexpected stashes of powder in the north-facing trees. I couldn't help but think, if it's this good now, the mountain would rule supreme after a big San Juan dump. In a bad snow year for the state, Silverton is the place to be to find the goods this spring.
In a time when ski costs are soaring, guided backcountry is a rich-man's sport, and base-area development a higher priority for owners than skiing itself, Silverton Mountain is a paradise found. Aaron plans to stay open as long as he has skiers. Do yourself a favor, and go ski Silverton. You'll help support a town, a ski area...maybe even the future of our sport. You'll also have one of the best ski days of your life.
Details, details:
Silverton Mountain Ski Area
Silverton Outdoor Learning and Recreation Center
P.O. Box 654
Silverton, CO 81433
Office: (970) 387-5706
info@silvertonmountain.com
www.silvertonmountain.com
Silverton Mountain Statistics:
Base elevation: 10,400'
Peak of Chair: 12,300'
Annual snowfall: 400"
Ticket price: Winter 2002 $99 (a day with a guide)
Bring: You will need your avalanche beacon, probe pole, and shovel (rentals available). Colorado hiking pass ($1-$3).
Open: Thursdays-Sundays Weather permitting
Steepest Run: 55 degrees
Easiest Run: 30 - 25 degrees (steepest run at your average ski area)
Maximum skier visits daily: 20 people
Closest town: Silverton, CO (6 miles)
Where to stay: The Triangle Motel, or try www.silverton.org
Closest Airport: Durango (52 miles), Montrose (50 miles), Telluride (110 miles), Grand Junction (100 miles)
Drive: The drive from Durango or Grand Junction is easy. It is a myth that the passes are always closed and scary to drive. If you can drive to Denver in winter, you can drive to Silverton.
Contact: Aaron & Jenny
info@silvertonmountain.com
970-387-5706